Day 1: Hanoi - Mai Chau, ~160 km, ~6 h (L, D)Once out of the Red River Delta, which brims with traditional farming activity, we pass through limestone monoliths and into foothills populated by Muong people. We head straight at the main range before breaching a high and beautiful forested pass, which descends into the hidden valley of Mai Chau where we spend the night with friends in a traditional Thai stilt house in Pom Coong village.
Day 2: Mai Chau - Son La, ~200 km, ~8 h (B, L, D)
On good road looking high over distant mountains we head up into a forested region populated by H'mong people before descending into a mountainous tea-growing region. Soon after we follow a long valley floor covered in a sea of rice surrounded by Black Thai villages all the way to Son La with its bargain-filled market. Sleep in a hotel.
Day 3: Son La - Lai Chau, ~200 km, ~8 h (B, L, D)
15 passes. Very nice road and stunning landscape. Probably the most beautiful journey of the whole trip even the road is in poor condition. Sleep in Lan Anh Hotel.
Day 4: Lai Chau - Tam Duong, ~150 km, ~7 h (B, L, D)
The most demanding and remote section of the drive takes us upstream along the left side of a Black River tributary through forest on a bumpy dirt road past isolated pockets of Tay, Thai, H'mong and Man peoples before breaching a pass to enter the Tam Duong plain, which is covered in shark's teeth like limestone karst. We would visit a Mang village near Sin Ho, the guide will buy some food to give to the head of the village, and he later distributes our donations to the villagers. We stay O/N at Phuong Thanh Hotel.
Day 5: Tam Duong - Sapa, ~100 km, ~5 h (B, L, D)Tam Duong market in the morning. There are colourful Montargnard groups living in Tam Duong: Black H'mong and Dzao. ~10 am: beautiful drive at slow pace on bumpy road to Sapa. We will have a big breakfast because there is nothing to eat on the way, just us with the wildness. We stay O/N in Cat Cat Hotel.
Day 6: Sapa - Coc Ly - Bac Ha, ~120 km, ~4 h (B, L, D)
Ride down to Pac Ngam to meet the boat that is waiting to take us to Coc Ly for the beautiful market on Tuesday where you will meet H'mong, Dzao, and Phu La people. Coc Ly is wild, surrounded by forest, and could only be reached by boat or bike. We would leave the bike behind to enjoy the comfort of boating on Chay River for over 1 hour (20 km). Lunch in Coc Ly before coming back to Pac Ngam and ride up to Bac Ha.
Day 7: Bac Ha - Luc Yen - Vu Linh, ~170 km, ~6 h (B, L, D)
We start from Bac Ha and ride down to Luc Yen. A boat is waiting for you to bring you and the bikes to Vu Linh, at our Dao friends' village. You will cross all the lake (~3 hours) and we estimate that you will reach the village at about 18:00. It will be dark already. The welcome is exceptional at Dao village of Vu Linh.
Day 8: Vu Linh - Hanoi, ~180 km, ~6 h (B, L)
Dao market in the morning. Come back to Hanoi by Son Tay. Very nice road.
B: Breakfast.
L: Lunch.
D: Dinner.
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